DOMAINE de la TAILLE aux LOUPS MONTLOUIS-sur-LOIRE CLOS de MOSNY 2023

Domaine de La Taille Aux Loups is situated not far from Vouvray. Their 45 hectares of vineyards are planted exclusively with Chenin Blanc. Jacky Blot purchased the Domaine in 1989. He was regarded as one of France’s most revered and talented winemakers, a true pioneer of Loire Chenin Blanc. With the passing of Jacky in 2023, Jean Phillippe carries on his legacy.

Among the remarkable collection of terroirs that Jacky Blot patiently assembled over more than 30 years, Clos Mosny holds a particularly special place. Acquired in 2010, this impressive 12-hectare parcel lies entirely within a single enclosed block, surrounded by high stone walls that stretch for more than a kilometre and a half. Located in the commune of Saint-Martin-le-Beau, just south of Montlouis, this unique ecosystem benefits from a south-facing orientation that ensures optimal ripening.

Jacky and Jean-Philippe focus on the finest geological section of the Clos, covering about 7 hectares. Here, sandy clay soils are mixed with surface flint before reaching the underlying limestone rock. Deeper layers of clay retain moisture, helping the vines resist water stress during the increasingly hot and dry summers, such as in 2022. These conditions contribute to the wine’s depth and structural complexity.

Fermentation takes place in barrels without the addition of commercial yeast or sugar. The wine is then aged for 12 to 18 months, depending on the vintage, in traditional Burgundy barrels sourced from Meursault, Ladoix, and Rully. It rests on its lees throughout the ageing process and is racked only once before bottling.

The nose opens with a smoky note reminiscent of struck flint, followed by rustic aromas that evoke late summer, such as ripe wheat and freshly threshed grain. These are layered with green, herbaceous scents of nettle, chive, chlorophyll, and chervil. As the wine evolves, sweet notes of quince paste, pineapple, apricot jam, and rhubarb emerge. Additional hints of blood orange, passion fruit, and candied lemon bring a refreshing lift, while marzipan adds a touch of richness.

On the palate, the wine is pure and finely textured. The mid-palate reveals vibrant fresh fruit, including Passe-Crassane pear and ripe quince. A delicate bitterness adds structure and creates a compelling desire to return to the glass. Flavours of medlar, lemon, and tangy rhubarb linger on the palate. The finish is subtly smoky and elegantly saline. Its remarkable length, carried by lively fruit, leaves a lasting sense of joy.