On Tuesday evening our tasting featured the Top 8 Pinot Noirs as Featured in Cuisine, plus two ‘mystery’ additions (Pencarrow 2010, Champion Pinot Noir Air NZ Wine Awards announced last Saturday night) and Crater Rim Lot 7 which received a massive score in the Wine Advocate (USA).
Of all the Cuisine Pinot Noir tastings we have held, this would have to be the best and most consistent line-ups we have seenThe overall standard was exceptionally high (as it should be) and there were no “what is this wine doing in the line-up?” type wines.
A surprise for many was the Whitehaven Greg – an excellent wine and the ‘return’ of the Giesen name to the top category. We are quite spoilt by choice at present, with some excellent Pinot Noirs available at what could be considered bargain prices . To be able to purchase world class Pinot Noir at less than $45.00 is amazing.
We ask for everyone’s top 2 wines at the end of the tasting and the crowd picks on the night were (in order of preference) the Amisfield, Whitehaven ‘Greg’, Olssen Jackson Barry, Domain Road, Crater Rim Lot 7 (all of these just separated by one vote each), followed by Wooing Tree, Wild Earth Deep Cove, Giesen Brothers, Thornbury and Pencarrow (equal).
These are the notes from Cuisine with online prices listed (order via Pinot Noir pages).
We served the wines from number 8 finishing with number 1.
1 ***** Olssens Jackson Barry Pinot Noir 2009 $42.99
Jewel-like in the glass, flashing blues as well as deep reds, this splendid pinot is equally vivid in aromatics, taste and mouthfeel. Flavours akin to raw red and dark berry fruits, along with a whisper of wild thyme (of which there’s plenty around Olssens’ Bannockburn vineyard), fragrant beetroot and subtle oak complexity, all grow in the mouth. And it has the depth and structure to develop beautifully over the years ahead.
2 ***** Whitehaven Greg Marlborough Pinot Noir 2009 $32.99
The resurgence of this established label continues with this attractive, bright, concentrated wine. It is rich in sweet dark plum and chocolatey notes, presented in a relaxed and comfortable structure. Try it with wild pork.
Mystery Wine Pencarrow Pinot Noir 2010 $22.99 Champion Pinot Noir ANZWA November 2011 $22.99
Brilliant dusky black cherry colour, full of Pinotness, with wild strawberry, cherry, warm forest, spice and briar notes on the nose. Brilliant tight sinewy autumn forest, whispy and wild, a bit Lindsay Lohan but with more spine and a lot more fine. Lovely long warm earth tannins with a hint of chalk dust. Greatness prevails.
3 ***** Thornbury Central Otago Pinot Noir 2009 Best Buy $26.99
Yet again, the Thornbury label provides lip-smacking quality at an eye-popping price. Faded rose and clove scents, great balance and intensity, and a long, juicy finish all contribute to what is a seamless, flowing drink. With its easy charm, it would be an ideal Friday-at-five pinot.
4 ***** Domain Road Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 $33.99
Since its debut pinot in 2006, this Bannockburn label has regularly starred at Cuisine tastings. Ink-dark, with a punchy fruit presence enriched by oak, the latest rendition is a big wine. Providing lift and elegance are well-managed fruit tannins and acidity. Suggested match: rabbit terrine with dark cherry chutney.
Mystery Wine Crater Rim Lot 7 Pinot Noir 2009 92/100 Robt Parker.Com October 2011 (one of the top Pinot Noir scores) $39.99
Medium ruby-purple in color, the Crater Rim Lot 7 Pinot Noir is slightly closed with subtle cranberry, pomegranate and spearmint aromas over earth and chocolate nuances. Medium bodied, it offers plenty of tight knit berry and spice flavors with crisp acid, medium level finely grained tannins and a long finish. Approachable now, it should benefit from another year in bottle and drink to 2016+.
5 ***** Giesen Marlborough Pinot Noir The Brothers 2009 $32.99
Heading the Giesen winery is a fraternal triumvirate, hence the name of this wine which Ben Glover likened to Grace Kelly. “She’s all grace, slightly angry with the monarchy, but always maintaining her poise.” Admired traits include good ripeness, a whole-bunch herbal twist and an overriding harmony.
6 ***** Amisfield Pinot Noir 2009 $43.99
Nothing amiss with Amisfield’s current release. A languid, silkiness characterises the texture; plums, spice and dried herb flavours are supported by rich tannins and superb acidity. Definitely a sleeper that will reward at least five years in the cellar.
7 ***** Wild Earth Deep Cove Pinot Noir 2009 Best Buy $31.99
Crafted by the experienced Steve Davies using fruit mainly from the Gibbston, this wine delivers terrific value. Seductive aromatics set up a rich, sinewy mouthful where upfront curranty notes are layered with more savoury, herbal flavours. Match it with slow-roasted pork belly.
8 ***** Wooing Tree Pinot Noir 2009 $38.99
A sexy, Carmenesque quality comes through in this wine’s dark colour, extravagantly floral perfume (lilac, violets) and resoundingly rich, plush fruit presence. There was comment on the spicy oak influence, which the panel felt was justified by the ample fruit.